How to Make Molds for Plaster Statues

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
A statue mold is a hollow form that is used as a vessel in which to pour plaster and let it set to an intended shape. If you have a statue that you would like to reproduce, you can use your statue to make a mold for plaster reproductions. You do not have to be a sculptor or to have any experience with mold making. Just follow these steps for how to make molds for plaster statues.

Steps

1. Measure your statue. Record its width, height and depth dimensions.
2. Build a box for pouring your mold material around your statue. Keep in mind that you will be laying your statue in the pour box on either its face or its back-never on the top or bottom.
   • Add 6 inches (15 cm) to each of the 3 measurements of your statue to get the appropriate box dimensions for the statue mold.
   • Use a table or hand saw to cut 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) plywood into 4 sides (2 width times depth and 2 height times depth) and a base (width times height).
   • Adjoin the side pieces using a hammer and nails, then attach the base in the same fashion.
   • Use a caulk gun to run a bead of caulk along the box edges, on the inside, where sides meet sides and where the walls meet the base. This will prevent the rubber mold compound from leaking out during the pouring process.
   • Allow the caulk to dry. The pouring box is now ready to make molds.
3. Paint the entire statue with a thin layer of rubber molding compound in preparation to make a mold.
4. Place the statue in the box in its proper orientation. You will need to elevate the underside in order to allow the rubber molding compound to flow underneath the statue during the mold making process.
   • Roll sculptor's clay into finger-width columns. You will use these to prop your statue up off the floor of the pour box. The number of columns depends on how large your statue is and how much it weighs. The less you use, the better.
   • Prop statue up on clay columns, cutting columns at differing lengths as necessary for the statue design. Your goal is to get the statue sitting as level as possible. This will take some fine-tuning.
5. Pour rubber molding compound into the pouring box. Fill the box until the compound reaches halfway up the statue's depth. This is the first part of your 2-part mold.
6. Allow the first half of the rubber statue mold to set completely. Setting time will be listed in the manufacturer's instructions.
7. Prepare to pour the second half of the statue mold.
   • Cut several pyramid-shaped divots in the first half of the mold. This will be where the 2 mold halves meet up for the plaster casting.
   • Paint the first half of the mold with mold release compound to prevent the 2 mold halves from sticking together. You are now ready to make a mold of the other half of the statue.
8. Pour rubber molding compound over the first mold, covering the remainder of the statue and filling the pour box. Allow molding compound to set completely.
9. Pry the sides and the floor of the pouring box apart, exposing the entire 2-part mold.
10. Pull the 2 mold halves apart and remove the original statue. Your statue mold is now ready for use.

Tips

• Experiment with different brands of rubber molding compound. Some may be easier to work with for certain shapes.

Warnings

• Your original statue is likely to get damaged through the mold making process, so be careful about using anything that you cannot risk ruining.

Things You'll Need

• Plywood
• Hand or table saw
• Nails
• Hammer
• Caulk
• Sculptor's clay
• Rubber molding compound
• Paint brush
• Hobby knife
• Mold release compound

Sources and Citations

• http://www.hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html

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How to Paint Concrete Statues

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Concrete statues are commonly found as yard ornaments or objects of interior decor. Because concrete is porous, it is important to use a specific process when painting it. Follow these instructions for how to paint concrete statues.

Steps

1. Prepare the statue for painting. Before painting concrete, you must take certain steps to ensure the paint will stick to it:
   • Wash the statue with water, using a garden hose or shower sprayer. Do not use soap.
   • Allow the concrete statue to air dry.
   • Blow any remaining dust or concrete flakes off the statue using a high pressure air hose.
2. Apply a base coat to the entire statue, using either a brush or a sprayer.
   • Use either a latex exterior paint or a paint formulated especially for painting concrete, in a color that is appropriate to the top coat color you will be using.
   • Coat the bottom of the concrete statue with a base coat first. Allow it to dry, then stand the statue up for painting.
   • Allow the base coat to dry, then inspect the statue for full coverage. Concrete is very absorbent, so you may need to apply more than 1 base coat. If you notice that an area seems dull or washed out in comparison to other areas, it is a good idea to apply another base coat.
3. Choose a painting method for the top coat. You may opt to use a paint brush or paint sprayer to coat the statue, or you can choose from other creative paint finish options:
   • Drybrushing involves using base and top coats that are contrasting in nature, and swiping a partially-coated paintbrush over the concrete statue to create a weathered, striation effect. For example, you can use a black base coat for your statue, then dip your paintbrush in white paint, wipe most of the white paint off the brush and swipe the barely-damp paintbrush across your statue for a feathery look.
   • For an antiquing method, use a light or white base coat for concrete statues, then apply the colored top coat, let the paint sit for 10 minutes and wipe away the excess paint using a dampened rag. Apply and wipe away paint as necessary to get the desired effect.
   • Airbrushing is a technique that requires a paint airbrush. It is a learned skill that can create realistic effects for animal statues, and can work with either a dark or light base coat, depending on the subject.
   • Detailing involves using small brushes to create details in the top coat by hand. Concrete statues that are going to be detailed generally work best with white base coats.
4. Paint the top coat. You can either paint concrete statues a solid color, or use a variety of colors for details. Use any type or variety of exterior latex paint and/or concrete paint products found in home improvement and craft stores. Allow the top coat to dry for 24 hours before moving on to the next step in painting concrete.
5. Seal the statue. Use a non-yellowing exterior concrete sealer. This will protect paint colors from fading and keep out harmful moisture. Place the concrete statue on a ventilated surface (gravel or rock will do), and allow the sealer to dry for 24 hours.

Tips

• Always make sure the area where you will be painting concrete is well-ventilated.
• If you cast concrete statues yourself, then you should wait at least 3 days after a statue is released from its mold to paint it.
• For easy accessibility, place the concrete statue on a turntable or other turning surface.
• If you are painting in the hot sun, you may need to thin your paints with water to allow the paint to soak into the concrete before it dries.
• Reseal painted concrete statues every 1 to 3 years to protect the paint job.

Warnings

• Do not seal the bottom of concrete statues, as it is important to let them breathe.

Sources and Citations

• http://www.svjcreativedesigns.com/info/care.php
• http://extremehowto.com/creating-concrete-sculptures/

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How to Make a Wire Tree Sculpture

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Rather than putting a traditional bonsai tree on your desk, try something unique and different. With a little wire, some rocks and a small flower pot, you can create a unique wire tree!

Steps

1. Obtain nine or twelve strands of 24-gauge wire. Decide how high you want your wire tree sculpture to be, then multiply that height by 2.5cm/1 inch (for example, if you want a 30cm/12 inches tree, you need wire that is 75cm/29.5 inches long). 
2. Cut the wire strands equally. Bend them in the middle as if you're going to fold them in half (like a "U" shape). Keeping a loop at the bottom (perhaps make use of your fingers here), twist the two vertical sections together to secure the loop. (This loop will form the roots.)
3. Divide the loop into smaller bunches of wire (maybe two or three strands per new loop). Start twisting these loops individually, then split them off again and continue twisting until it forms a root-like system. You'll be left with mini loops at the end of each root. Using wire cutters, snip these loops to make the ends of the roots.
4. To create the top half of the tree, gently twist the 18 (in case you use 9 wires) or 24 (12 wires) to make a stem. Do this for a few centimeters (inches), until reaching the height where you want to make the lowest branch. At that point, take four strands and separate these from the rest of the bunch. The strands need not be the four strands that were already sitting together––you will get the best result when you take two strands from each side of the bunch.
5. Twist these four strands together to make a branch. Make this twist a few centimeters (inches) long.
6. After twisting a branch for a few centimeters (inches), take two strands apart and twist them again. Twist the other two strands together also. Make sure there's a balanced distance between the height of the first branch, the length of the first branch to the first "split" and the rest of the branch.
7. Continue twisting the stem until the stage where you want to make a second branch.
8. Repeat the process with four strands of wire, etc.
9. Decorate. Add beads or costume gem stones if you like. Place the tree in a pretty plant container or similar item for display.

Video

Tips

• The tree can be made to stand alone or it could be glued to a piece of driftwood or similar piece of spare wood for display.

Things You'll Need

• 24 gauge wire strands, 9 or 12 strands, amount dependent on tree size
• Wire cutter
• Suitable non-scratch surface to work on, such as a craft self-healing cutting mat
• Container suitable for holding or displaying the completed sculpture
• Beads or costume gems for decoration (optional) plus glue to attach

Related wikiHows

• How to Do Ceramic Sculpture
• How to Make a Plaster Mask
• How to Create a Claymation Armature
• How to Solder Wire Sculptures
• How to Create a Packing Tape Sculpture
• How to Sculpt Using Sand and Portland Cement
• How to Make Button Sculptures

Sources and Citations

• http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=135&page=1 – research source

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How to Make an Outdoor Fountain

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Would you like to add the relaxing sound of running water to your home or garden without spending hundreds of dollars? This guide will teach you the basic steps to create a unique, custom-made fountain. These steps can be followed to create a fountain that fits your style, abilities and budget.

Steps

1. Plan your fountain. Decide where you want to place your fountain, how large you want it to be and how you want it to look. These factors will all influence what materials you will need.
   • Your fountain will be composed of three main elements: a water reservoir, a water pump and a design feature.
   • The location must have easy access to an electrical outlet or the ability to run an unobtrusive extension cord to power the pump
   • The style is up to you. Go for something that works well with your existing landscaping and suits your personal taste.
2. Gather your supplies.
   • A Reservoir. This can be any type of water-tight container, such as a plastic tub or even plastic sheeting lining your reservoir hole if building underground. If building above ground, consider making the reservoir part of the design, such as half a wine barrel, as long as it will hold water.
   • A Water pump. Pumps can be purchased from most home improvement or landscape supply stores. You will need a pump with enough power (measured in gallons per second) to push the water up to the fountain head. Since this will vary based on your design, it is best to consult with someone with knowledge of pumps before purchasing.
   • Pipes and tubing. The pipes or tubing will deliver the water from the reservoir to the fountain head. Many water pumps will come with tubing, but if not, or if you need something specific for your design (such as copper pipe), you will need to purchase it separately. Rubber tubing will be the easiest to work with.
   • Design features. These elements will depend entirely on your design, such as river stones or a sculpted fountainhead. If your fountainhead of choice does not already have a hole, you may need to drill one.
3. Assemble your fountain parts.
   • If building below ground, dig a hole that will fit the water reservoir snugly. Be sure to leave 2 inches (5 cm) of drainage gravel beneath the reservoir. If you wish to hide the power cord, you will need to dig a separate trench out from the reservoir hole.
   • Fit the pump in the reservoir before adding water. Ensure all tubing and power connections fit and function properly.
   • Add your design elements. The water pump should remain accessible for adjustment, repair and cleaning, either by leaving an opening or door, or with easy disassembly.
   • Fill the fountain with enough clean water to fully submerge the water pump and keep it submerged while in operation when water will be cycling through the upper part of the fountain.
4. Adjust water flow. Turn on water pump (adjusting pressure if needed) and arrange the fountain's design elements to ensure the water returns to the reservoir. The look and sound of the fountain can also be adjusted this way by tweaking the angle of the fountain head and any obstacles in the path of the water flow.
5. Enjoy your fountain. Hide any rough spots or visible mechanisms with design features such as stones or plants.

Tips

• An example of a very simple fountain can be made with a 10 gallon (38 liter) rubber feed container that is 8 inches (20 cm) deep or larger (available at most farm supply stores), a length of hose, a water pump and a pile of rocks. Dig a hole 1 inch deeper than the container, add 1 inch of sand to help level to container. Put the pump into the container and connect a length of hose about 2 feet (60 cm) in length to the pump. Pile rocks around the tubing inside the container, leaving the pump exposed. Make a small mountain tapering towards the center. Use caulk if you find it hard to keep the rocks in place. Cut the tubing flush with the top rocks. Fill the container with water, adjust the speed of the pump and enjoy!
• Buckets, rubber feed troughs, large waterproof planters and plastic pond sheeting are all good reservoirs, though you can use anything that can hold water.
• To add interest, try creating a secondary runoff. For example, if your fountain head is water running out of a tipped pail, try building a small stack of rocks inside your reservoir to get a babbling brook sound.
• Place the electrical cord where it will not be seen, or be in the way of lawn mowers or other garden maintenance that could damage it.
• To hide unsightly reservoir borders, tubing, or other structural elements, try planting ground cover plants that grow in shallow dirt, caulking rocks to the offending area, or stacking landscaping bricks or other items that fit with the theme of your fountain to hide the area.

Warnings

• Use only submersible fountain pumps that are rated for outdoor use.
• Do not let the water reservoir run dry. It can burn out the pump or potentially even spark a fire.
• Always plug the pump into a GFI (ground fault interrupt) outlet. If you do not have one, install one or have a qualified electrician install one.
• Make sure that you run your fountain at least every few days. Otherwise, it could be an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes.
• If you need to use an extension cord, make sure it is rated for outdoor use and compatible with your pump.
• If you must run an electrical cord across areas where a lawn mower will be used, bury the cord, or make certain that it is moved before anyone mows.

Things You'll Need

• Waterproof container to serve as a reservoir.
• Water pump.
• Tubing or piping.
• Decorative items unique to your design.
• Water source if hooking up to an auto-fill.

Sources

• http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20050351,00.html

Related wikiHows

• How to Weld Copper
• How to Make a Water Fountain
• How to Make a Pond
• How to Make Fake Rocks With Roof Sealant
• How to Build a Stone Fence
• How to Build a Lamp
• How to Create a Zen Garden
• How to Create a Rustic Flower Garden

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Make an Outdoor Fountain. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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How to Find Confucian Figurines

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Confucian Figurines are figurines of famous Confucian sages, scholars, generals, many of whom have become Gods. Confucian figurines are often used as shrines for worship or something to focus on during meditation.

Steps

1. If you live in a large city it should be quite easy to find Confucian/Taoist/Buddhist figurines. Most large cities like London or New York will have Asian/Chinese districts where most of the populace are foreign and most of the shops are foreign. Take a stroll down one of these streets and have a glance in shop windows until you come across the right shop.
2. Due to the increasing popularity of Asiatic customs and furniture it is possible to find Figurines in shops not in foreign districts of the city. Many furniture stores or jewellers have Asiatic figurines and furniture.
3. It would be wise, if you know a practicing Confucian or someone who has an interest in Confucianism, to inquire if they have any and where did they get them from. Note: these people are probably collectors and may have more expensive, high quality figures. Most shops will still have varying price ranges for customers on a budget.
4. If you do not live in a major city or near one it can be very difficult to get hold of these rather elusive figurines. If you have the internet or a local library with internet, you can browse the web for them. Just type in Confucian figurines and off you go! (try eBay)
5. If you can't find any Confucian Figurines or can't afford them, but have an artistic flare, why not make your own? Figurines are often made of wood and painted. If you or someone you know is a carpenter, all you'll have to do is get a design.

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How to Carve Stone

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Carving stone is a type of sculpting. Stone is different from other mediums in that it's difficult to shape perfectly because of its density and unpredictability. Carving stone requires patience and planning. Use these steps as a stone-carving guide.

Steps

1. Choose the carving stone.
   • Stones have varying degrees of hardness. Soapstone and alabaster are common soft carving stones, granite and marble are the hardest, and limestone is somewhere in the middle. Each of these stones has different colors, textures and polishing ability.
2. Purchase a stone-carving kit. Local art stores or home and garden companies sell these types of kits.
   • A full kit can cost more than $100.
3. Place sandbags on the ground or on the surface (depending on the stone's size) of your workspace to support the stone.
   • The sandbags cushion the stone and prevent it from breaking.
4. Decide how you want to carve the stone.
   • Have a full stone-carving kit with chisels of various shapes and sizes for intricate designs.
5. Mark the stone with a pencil or crayon. Mark according to the shape you want the stone to take.
6. Cut small parallel grooves into the stone. Use a circular saw along your framing marks.
7. Take a point chisel and angle it 45 degrees in 1 of the grooves. Hit the chisel with the largest mallet.
   • This removes the stone between your parallel grooves.
8. Continue chiseling off a line around your framing mark. Repeat the chiseling process again once you've made it around the stone 1 time.
   • You will begin to see your stone take shape after you've chiseled around your framing mark several times (depending on the size of the stone).
9. Make finer cuts. Use a claw chisel for the cuts and details on the stone.
   • Accentuate the low points by chiseling deeper and leave the higher parts the stone relatively high.
10. Refine the points further using a toothed chisel. You are working to smooth out the stone by employing increasingly smaller chisels.
11. Remove the toothed chisel lines. Use a flat chisel.
12. Use a rasp to create elaborate, delicate details. The rasp also smoothes out the marks of the flat chisel.
13. Sand the stone using 100-grit sandpaper.
    • Repeat the sanding process with 150-grit, then 200-grit, then 300-grit sandpaper. Continue down the line until the stone is the degree of smoothness you want.
14. Polish the surface. Rub the entire surface with silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper.

Tips

• You can make your own sandbags by cutting up old jeans and sewing them after they are filled with sand.
• You will need to use smaller mallets as your chisels become smaller and more precise.

Warnings

• Do not attempt to lift heavy stones without the aid of another person or a machine.
• Do not carve stone without wearing goggles, a dust mask, leather gloves and earplugs.
• Be aware of the direction of the stone's grain. If you chisel against it, it will break off haphazardly.

Things You'll Need

• Stone
• Stone-carving kit (with mallets and chisels)
• Sandbags
• Pencil/crayon
• Circular saw
• Sandpaper of various grits
• Goggles
• Dust mask
• Leather gloves
• Earplugs
• Silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper

Related wikiHows

• How to Carve on a Long Board
• How to Carve a Jack O' Lantern
• How to Engrave Stone
• How to Clean Amber

Sources and Citations

• http://www.stoneshaper.com/how.html

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Carve Stone. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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How to Drill Through Granite

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
Granite counters and flooring are popular among homebuilders and homeowners because of the material’s attractiveness and durability. Granite comes in a wide variety of colors and finishes and, despite being somewhat more expensive than most alternatives, it continues to be among the most popular materials in high-end building and remodeling projects. Because of its hardness and relative brittleness, however, granite can be a tricky material to work with: You need special saws to cut granite tiles and industrial-level saws to cut counter-thickness pieces. It also takes special care and tools to drill through granite. The wrong method or drill will likely result in either ruined drill bits or cracked granite. With the right tools and techniques, however, homeowners and do-it-yourselfers can drill through granite like a pro.

Steps

1. Make certain you really, really, really need to drill a hole where you’re thinking about drilling one. Consider other alternatives before you start putting holes in your granite, especially when you’re working with something as expensive as a granite countertop.
2. Determine the ideal hole size your application requires.
3. Mark the area where you plan to drill. For small diameter holes, you can use a small dot. For larger diameter holes, use a template or draw a precise circle that corresponds exactly with the diameter of the hole you’re drilling.
   • If you’re concerned that the drill bit will wander, you can clamp a piece of scrap wood with the appropriate sized guide hole over your drilling target.
4. Clamp a piece of stone scrap underneath the area where you will be drilling to prevent chipping on the underside of the granite. For maximum safety and effectiveness, place a clamp on either side of the hole you’re drilling.
5. Install the desired size diamond drill bit into a high-speed drill or angle grinder with a drill bit adapter.
   • Make sure the drill bit is specifically designed for drilling through granite and that it can handle the depth of drilling your application requires.
   • Diamond core drill bits have a good reputation for drilling through granite with ease; a good one should be able to get through a ¾-inch (1.9 cm) slab in less than a minute.
6. Begin drilling at a steady speed.
   • Some drill bit manufacturers recommend using water to cool and lubricate the drill bit while drilling. Others say you won’t need to do that for their bits. Either way, water will serve to reduce the amount of granite dust in the air.
   • If you use water, form a dam around the drilling area using plumbers putty.
   • If you don’t use water, you can have someone use a shop vac to vacuum the granite dust as you drill.
7. Drill until you’ve gone through the granite target and hit the underlying scrap stone.
8. Cool the drill bit with water in between holes when drilling multiple holes.

Video

Warnings

• Always wear safety goggles when using a power drill. This caution is especially important when working with high-speed drills and hard materials like granite or marble.

Things You’ll Need

• High-speed drill or angle grinder
• Granite drill bit
• Clamps
• Scrap stone
• Scrap wood (if wanted for a drill guide)
• Water (if recommended or desired)
• Plumbers putty (if using water)

Related wikiHows

• How to Clean Granite Tiles
• How to Drill Into Concrete
• How to Drill Holes Through Porcelain Tiles
• How to Seal Granite Countertops
• How to Paint With Granite Paint
• How to Clean Granite Countertops
• How to Restore Granite and Marble Floor

Sources and Citations

• http://www.contractortalk.com/f4/drilling-through-granite-counters-8384
• http://www.ukam.com/core_drills_stone.htm

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Drill Through Granite. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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Great Tips for Ceramic Sculpture

How to Do Ceramic Sculpture

from wikiHow - The How to Manual That You Can Edit
A sculpture is a three-dimensional piece of artwork meant to be seen from different directions. Hence, sculptures must be developed from all points of view. There are different materials with which sculptures can be created, such as clay, textiles, metal, glass, or wood. Clay is often used to create beautiful ceramic pieces or portrait busts. This article describes techniques for the construction of clay sculpture that is intended to be fired in a potter's oven.

Steps

1. Decide how you want to create your sculpture so it looks good. Sculpture can be created by piecing together things thrown on the wheel, by the use of coils and slabs, using a mold, by making solid objects out of clay, or any combination thereof.
2. Hollow out your sculpture. Clay cannot be fired solid, and should only be usually no more than 1/2 inch thick in any place. You can use ceramic trimming tools to scrape and dig out the clay while still retaining a strong wall.
3. Keep your creation uniform to prevent shrinkage and cracking. Different thickness of clay will shrink at different rates, so most parts of a single piece should be of roughly the same thickness.
4. Use plastic sheets and bags to keep the work wet while building, and to control drying speed. Water can be added at any time with various sizes of sponges. Red iron clay tends to dry slower, have a lot of strength, and is very workable.
5. Reassemble individual pieces by scoring both ends of reattached pieces and using adhesive mud. Dried, reused clay soaked and dissolved in water can be used as adhesive for attaching parts.
   • For instance, use a wide-mouth gallon size plastic jar as a base mold and let water evaporate and clay congeal to a thick, axle-grease consistency. This may take a few weeks. The adhesive clay is then applied to both ends after scoring and is pressed together. With a wooden tool, the edges are mashed together both inside and out, then covered with stiff working clay for strength. When the piece is reassembled, all exterior joints are contoured for the final finish. This is then dried slowly, the bigger and thicker pieces taking up to two or three weeks. If the hollowed walls are done unevenly, with curved trimming tools leaving lots of ribbing, the pieces may warp and not end up being smooth.
6. Roll out coils with fingers, usually starting from the center and working both hands away from each other. When joining coils lengthwise for pots, they can be scored and applied together with adhesive clay. However, the inside should normally be mashed together for strength. Coils are especially vulnerable to separation on the bottom.
7. Roll out slabs with a rolling pin. For even rolling, line the clay between two strips of material such as plywood, the thickness of which is the same as with the intended slab. The ends of the rolling pin, when rolled on the strips, should then flatten the clay to that exact width. Slabs will tend to considerably warp in the fire. Interior ceramic bracing may be necessary to mute this. Plaster used as a working surface will tend to dry out the clay. Find a non-stick surface such as raw wood.
8. Create texture in innumerable ways such as rolling clay on burlap, branding with all sorts of implements, carving, using imprint tools.
9. Finish the piece. Ceramic sculpture can be glazed, painted with stains, or fired and then painted with acrylics or oils or any combination thereof. Sculpture too big for the kiln can made in pieces to be fitted together after firing. Allowance must be made for attachment in the interior and the ability to cover and color the cracks so they do not show. Ceramic sculpture is delicate and subject to breakage.

Video

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• How to Make Polymer Clay Cats
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Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Do Ceramic Sculpture. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

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